UltraClear Art & Craft Epoxy Instructions

1Prepare your workspace

1. Set the room to 75°F to 80°F with humidity under 85%. Keep it there for the full 72 hour cure. Cooler rooms make the epoxy thick, slow to level and slow to cure. Warmer rooms shorten your working time. Let the epoxy and your project sit in the room for a few hours before you start.
2. Start clean, dry and level. The surface must be free of dust, dirt, wax, grease and oil. Epoxy self levels, so if the piece is not level the finish will be thicker on one side. Do not apply over oil based stains, paints or urethanes, the epoxy will not bond to them.
3. Protect and raise. Cover the work area with wax paper. Set the piece on cups or stands so it sits above the surface and drips run off the edges instead of pooling underneath.
4. Plan your quantity. Use the coverage table below. Mix a little more than you think you need, since leftover epoxy cannot be saved but running out mid pour ruins the piece.

Coverage at 1/8 inch

Add extra for edges, drips and anything you are covering.

Gather your tools

Clean mixing containers (one per batch), flat edged stir sticks, graduated measuring, a paint brush or spatula for spreading, a propane torch or heat gun, gloves, wax paper, and cups or stands to raise the piece. For molds: silicone molds. For tumblers: a cup turner.

Zero VOC and virtually odorless, but still a chemical. Wear nitrile gloves and eye protection, work with ventilation, and keep it off skin. Do not eat, drink or smoke while mixing. Keep away from children. Read the product label and safety data sheet before you begin.

2Measure and mix

Equal parts, stirred until completely clear. Most problems with any epoxy come from the ratio or the stir, so take your time here.

1. Measure equal volumes of resin and hardener. Use a graduated container and measure by volume, never by weight and never by eye. Mix only what this pour needs, and never more than 1 gallon combined in one container. Use a new, clean container for every batch.
2. Stir for 5 to 6 minutes. Scrape the sides and bottom of the container constantly and fold the top layer down into the mix. Stir steadily, do not beat or whip it, which adds bubbles. The mix is done when it is completely clear with no streaks, swirls or cloudiness. Small batches need the same care as a full gallon.
3. Add color now, if you are using it. Pigmently mica powders and liquid dyes are made for this epoxy. Most other micas and dyes also work, but test them on a small batch first. A little goes a long way; start light and add more. Mix the color in fully before pouring.
4. Pour right away. You have about 40 minutes of working time once mixed, but that is time to work it on the piece, not time to let it sit. Epoxy left in the container builds heat and sets early. Pour it onto the piece as soon as it is mixed and do your spreading and detail work there.

Working in small batches

Most art and craft projects use a few ounces at a time. Measure in small graduated cups, stir the full 5 to 6 minutes anyway, and mix a fresh batch for each color rather than splitting one batch and letting the rest wait. Several small cups of color poured onto a piece at the same time will flow together and blend; pour them in the order you want them to layer.

3Seal, pour, clear the bubbles

Porous surfaces get a thin seal coat first. Then the flood coat goes on at 1/8 inch and self levels.

1. Seal coat porous surfaces. Wood, paper, canvas, cork, dried flowers and anything else porous will release bubbles into the finish unless sealed. Brush on a thin coat of this same epoxy over the whole surface. It does not need to be smooth. Wait 3 hours, then pour the flood coat. Smooth, non porous surfaces such as glass, metal, ceramic and silicone molds can skip the seal coat.
2. Pour the flood coat. Pour slowly onto the center and let it flow out, guiding it to the edges with a spatula or brush. It self levels to about 1/8 inch and can be poured up to ¼ inch in one coat. Let it run over the edges for an even coating on the sides, and catch the drips on the wax paper.
3. Clear the bubbles. Wave a propane torch or heat gun about 8 inches above the surface in a continuous motion. Never hold it in one place. Come back every so often and sweep again as new bubbles rise, for up to 40 minutes after the pour. After 40 minutes, stop; heat on epoxy that has started to set burns it.
4. Cover and leave it alone. Dust and pet hair love wet epoxy. Cover the piece with a box or a plastic tub without touching the surface, and keep the room warm for 72 hours.

Timing

Adding more coats

For a thicker finish or to cover added details, pour the next coat 4 to 6 hours after the previous one while it is still slightly tacky. The layers bond as one. If more than 10 hours have passed, lightly sand the surface with 200 to 300 grit, wipe off every bit of dust with rubbing alcohol or acetone, and pour. The new coat fills the scratches and comes out clear.

4Cure and care

Allow 72 hours before use

Keep the room at 75°F to 80°F for the whole cure. The surface is dry to the touch well before 72 hours but is still soft underneath, so leave it alone. After the full cure it is hard, water resistant and food safe, so coasters, trays and charcuterie boards are ready to use.

Care: clean with warm soapy water and a soft cloth. No abrasive cleaners or scrub pads, and do not try to buff or polish it. Use trivets and coasters under hot items, and never set hot cookware directly on the epoxy. A worn piece can be lightly sanded and given a fresh coat at any time.

Cleanup and disposal

Clean tools, surfaces and spills with acetone, rubbing alcohol or nail polish remover while the epoxy is still liquid. Keep those cleaners off your skin; wash skin with soap and water instead. Once cured it can only be removed by sanding or scraping. Collect spills rather than rinsing them away. Fully cured epoxy goes in regular household waste in most places. Dispose of unmixed resin or hardener according to local rules, never down a drain.

Troubleshooting

Need help with your project?