Published by UltraClear Epoxy · Manufacturer’s application guide · View the product
Complete application instructions for UltraClear Deep Pour Epoxy, a crystal clear, low heat casting epoxy for river tables, deep fills, molds and embedding objects. Mix 2 parts resin to 1 part hardener by volume, seal the wood with Bar & Table Top Epoxy first, pour in ¼ inch lifts up to 1 inch per layer, add layers 12 to 24 hours apart, and allow 7 to 14 days for a full cure. On tables and bar tops, finish with a top coat of Bar & Table Top Epoxy.
Read everything before mixing. Deep Pour is a different product from our Bar & Table Top Epoxy: a different ratio, a much thicker pour, and a much longer cure. These directions apply only to UltraClear Deep Pour Epoxy, a crystal clear, low heat casting epoxy for river tables, deep fills, molds and encapsulating objects.
Prepare your workspace
- Set the room between 60°F and 85°F with humidity under 60%. Cooler is better for deep pours, 65 to 70°F is ideal, and 60°F is the coldest we recommend. Keep it there for the whole cure. If you run a fan, aim it across the surface, never at the epoxy. Interior use only.
- Seal every bit of wood the pour will touch. The surface must be dry and free of dust, wax, grease and oil. Brush a seal coat of UltraClear Bar & Table Top Epoxy onto river edges, knots, worm holes and any other bare wood, or it will release bubbles into the pour for hours. One coat is enough if the pour is colored. For a clear pour, apply two or more coats. Polyurethane is not a substitute. The seal coat runs on the Bar & Table Top clock: pour the Deep Pour 4 to 6 hours after the last seal coat. Past 10 hours, scuff it with 220 to 320 grit and wipe with acetone first. Paper and photos get Mod Podge instead.
- Raise and protect. Set the piece on blocks about 2 inches above the work area so excess can drip off, over plastic or a drop cloth. River tables and molds need a leak proof form. See "Build a leak proof form" below.
- Plan your quantity. Use the coverage table below and our Deep Pour calculator. Running out mid pour leaves a visible line between batches.
Coverage per 1.5 gallon kit
| Pour depth | Covers about |
|---|---|
| ¼ inch | 10 sq ft |
| ½ inch | 5 sq ft |
| 1 inch | 2.5 sq ft |
| 2 inches | 1.25 sq ft |
Each 1.5 gallon kit is 1 gallon of resin and ½ gallon of hardener; our 3, 6, 9 and 12 gallon sizes are simply multiple kits, so multiply the table. Layers must be at least ¼ inch (Deep Pour will not cure thinner) and for consistent results no more than 1 inch. Experienced users in a cool, controlled room can pour up to 2 inches at once. Deeper than that in one pour builds heat and leads to bubbles, yellowing, cracking or a pour that boils. Build thicker pieces in layers.
Deep Pour is not a top coat. It cures to a softer finish that can scratch and dent if left as the final surface. On any wear surface such as a table or bar top, finish with a flood coat of UltraClear Bar & Table Top Epoxy, or an Osmo oil finish, once the Deep Pour has fully cured.
Wear gloves and eye protection, work in a ventilated space and avoid breathing vapors. For use by adults or under adult supervision. Read the product label and safety data sheet before you begin.
Measure and mix
Deep Pour mixes 2 parts resin to 1 part hardener by volume. This is the opposite of what many people expect, and it is not the same as our Bar & Table Top Epoxy. Mismeasured epoxy leaves soft or sticky spots that never cure.
- Measure 2 parts resin, then 1 part hardener. Use a graduated container and measure by volume, never by weight and never by eye. Mix only what you need for this pour, and never more than 1.5 gallons total in one container. A full kit is one batch. Small batch example: 8 oz resin + 4 oz hardener makes 12 oz. The ratio stays 2:1 at every size.
- Stir for 3 to 4 minutes with a flat edged stick, no longer. Scrape the sides and bottom of the container constantly and fold the top layer down into the mix. Stir steadily without whipping in air. The mix is done when it is completely uniform with no streaks or swirls. Mixing longer only adds heat.
- Add color now, if you are using it. Pigmently pigments or Pigmently liquid dye both work. Universal paint colorants also work if they are water based. Never use oil based colorants. Add color during the 3 to 4 minute mix, not afterward, and test the amount on a small scale first. There is no set ratio of color to resin.
- Pour within 10 minutes of mixing. Mixed epoxy left sitting in the container begins to heat up, which shortens the working time and can ruin the batch. Mix, then pour. Do not mix batches ahead.
Gather your tools
Clean, dust free mixing container with a flat bottom, flat edged stir stick, graduated measuring, propane torch or heat gun, gloves, a small brush for edges and crevices, and plastic or a drop cloth. For a form: UltraClear Epoxy Edge Tape and silicone caulk.
Storage and shelf life
Keep leftover resin and hardener in their original containers with the lids on, and use them within 60 days of opening to avoid yellowing inside the bottle.
| What | Limit |
|---|---|
| Storage | Dry place between 60°F and 80°F, lids on, out of reach of children. |
| Unopened | Use within 1 year of purchase. |
| Opened | Use within 2 months. Never leave resin or hardener in an open container. |
| Where to use | Interior only. Room between 60°F and 85°F, humidity under 60%. |
Embedding objects
Seal anything porous first (wood, bark, dried flowers, paper, fabric) with Bar & Table Top Epoxy or Mod Podge, or it will bubble for hours. Glue or weight objects down so they cannot float up. Pour the first ¼ inch, set the objects, clear the bubbles, then continue in lifts. Pigments and dyes go into the mix before pouring, never sprinkled on top.
Pour in lifts
Deep Pour goes on about ¼ inch at a time, clearing bubbles between each lift, until the layer reaches the depth you want. One inch per layer for most people. Up to 2 inches if you are experienced and the room is cool.
- Pour slowly, about ¼ inch deep. Pour in a thin, steady stream from low over the surface. Let it find its own level and flow into corners and around objects. Use a small brush to work epoxy into crevices and edges.
- Clear the bubbles. Wave a propane torch or heat gun 4 to 6 inches above the surface in a continuous sweep. Never hold it in one spot. For stubborn, deep set bubbles, heat the tip of a narrow screwdriver and touch the bubble with the hot tip.
- Repeat ¼ inch at a time. Pour the next ¼ inch as soon as the bubbles are cleared from the last one, and keep going until the layer is at the depth you want. These ¼ inch passes all happen in one session; they are not separate overnight layers. Stop at 1 inch unless you are experienced, and never past 2 inches.
- Keep torching as bubbles rise. Bubbles will keep working their way up from the surface and from embedded objects. Check back and torch as needed for up to 40 minutes after the first pour. After that, leave it alone.
Thicker than 1 inch? Build it in layers. Pour the next layer 12 to 24 hours after the last one. Inside that window the previous layer is still tacky and the new one bonds to it with no sanding. A 1.5 inch river is two ¾ inch layers. A 3 inch mold is three 1 inch layers. If you miss the window, let the layer cure hard (3 days), scuff with 220 to 320 grit, wipe with denatured alcohol or acetone, then pour.
Timing
Timing assumes a room between 60°F and 85°F. Cold rooms stretch every number. Also note that a small test cup cures far slower than a real pour, because less epoxy in one place makes less heat. Do not judge a batch by the cup.
River tables and molds: build a leak proof form
Deep Pour will find any gap. Build the form from wood or melamine and cover every inside face with UltraClear Epoxy Edge Tape, which the epoxy will not stick to, so the form comes off cleanly after the pour. Run a bead of silicone caulk along every inside seam, smooth it with a finger, and let it cure before pouring. Keep silicone off any surface the epoxy needs to bond to. The slabs can sit right against the form with no gap. Clamp or screw them down from outside the form so they cannot float, and brad nail any bark you are keeping. Level the form on all sides. Silicone molds also work well. Our river table tutorial video shows the whole build and pour.
Cure, finish and care
Finish with a top coat
Bring the Deep Pour fill roughly level with the wood, keeping every layer at least ¼ inch. Never use a thin skim of Deep Pour to finish the whole top; it will not cure that thin. Wait at least 3 days after the last layer, sand it flat with 220 to 320 grit, and wipe off all dust with denatured alcohol or acetone. Seal any bare wood you exposed with Bar & Table Top Epoxy, wait 4 to 6 hours, then pour its 1/8 inch flood coat over the whole top following its own instructions. Note the different clock: Bar & Table Top needs the room above 75°F during application and for 72 hours after. Osmo oil finishes are the other option for a matte, hand rubbed look.
Cleanup
Acetone removes Deep Pour from tools and spills while it is still liquid; test the surface underneath first. Do not use acetone on skin. Wash skin with soap and water or a citrus cleaner. Once cured it can only be removed by sanding, scraping or cutting.
Troubleshooting
| Problem | Likely cause and fix |
|---|---|
| Soft or sticky spots after 72 hours | The ratio was off, or the sides and bottom of the container were not scraped into the mix. Cut out the soft material, wipe with acetone, and refill with a fresh, carefully measured batch. |
| Cracked, smoking, boiling, or pulled away from the wood or mold | It overheated. Causes: more than 1 inch in one layer, a batch over 1.5 gallons, mixed too long, left in the container past 10 minutes, a warm room, or unsealed wood. Sand out the damaged epoxy, repour in thinner layers, then top coat. |
| Bubbles, yellowing or distortion | Poured too deep in one layer, or bubbles rising from unsealed wood or objects. Keep layers to 1 inch and seal everything porous. |
| Yellowed inside the bottle | Product left open, stored too warm, or past 60 days from opening. Store sealed and cool, and use opened kits promptly. |
| Still liquid after 24 hours | Usually normal. Pours under 1 inch take 24 to 48 hours to set, and a small test cup can take days. A cold room slows it further. Keep the room above 60°F and wait. |
| Scratches and dents in the finished piece | Deep Pour was left as the final surface. Sand and top coat with Bar & Table Top Epoxy. |
Frequently asked questions
What is the mixing ratio for Deep Pour Epoxy?
2 parts resin to 1 part hardener by volume. A 1.5 gallon kit is 1 gallon of resin and ½ gallon of hardener. For example, 8 oz of resin and 4 oz of hardener makes 12 oz of mixed epoxy. This is different from Bar & Table Top Epoxy, which mixes 1:1.
How deep can I pour Deep Pour Epoxy in one layer?
Up to 1 inch per layer for consistent results. Experienced users in a cool, controlled room (65 to 70°F) can pour up to 2 inches at once. Each layer must be at least ¼ inch, since Deep Pour will not cure thinner than that. Pour in ¼ inch passes within one session, clearing bubbles between passes.
How long do I wait between Deep Pour layers?
12 to 24 hours. Within that window the previous layer is still tacky and the new one bonds with no sanding. If you miss the window, let the layer cure hard for 3 days, scuff it with 220 to 320 grit, clean with denatured alcohol or acetone, then pour.
Do I need to seal the wood before pouring Deep Pour?
Yes. Brush a seal coat of UltraClear Bar & Table Top Epoxy onto river edges, knots, worm holes and any bare wood the Deep Pour will touch, or the wood releases bubbles into the pour. One seal coat is enough if the pour is colored. For a clear pour, apply two or more. Pour the Deep Pour 4 to 6 hours after the last seal coat.
Do I need a top coat over Deep Pour on a table or bar?
Yes. Deep Pour cures to a softer finish that can scratch and dent. Wait at least 3 days after the last layer, sand flat with 220 to 320 grit, clean, then pour a 1/8 inch flood coat of UltraClear Bar & Table Top Epoxy over the whole top. Bar & Table Top needs the room above 75°F during application and for 72 hours after.
What temperature does the room need to be for Deep Pour?
Between 60°F and 85°F with humidity under 60%. Cooler is better for deep pours, and 65 to 70°F is ideal. Thick pours generate heat as they cure, so a cool room helps prevent overheating, bubbles and cracking.
Is it normal for Deep Pour to still be liquid after 24 hours?
Often, yes. A 1 inch pour is usually dry to the touch in 12 to 18 hours, but pours under 1 inch take 24 to 48 hours, and a small test cup can take days because less epoxy in one place makes less heat. A cold room slows it further. Full cure takes 7 to 14 days.
How do I build a river table form?
Build the form from wood or melamine and cover every inside face with UltraClear Epoxy Edge Tape so the epoxy does not stick. Seal every inside seam with silicone caulk and let it cure before pouring. The slabs can sit right against the form. Clamp or screw them down from outside so they cannot float. Silicone molds also work well.
Why did my Deep Pour crack, smoke, or pull away from the wood?
It overheated. The usual causes are pouring more than 1 inch in a layer, a batch over 1.5 gallons, mixing longer than 3 to 4 minutes, leaving mixed epoxy in the container past 10 minutes, a warm room, or unsealed wood. Sand out the damaged epoxy, repour in thinner layers, then top coat.